Thanks Goodness!

It’s a good thing that my fingers were left intact despite Mother Nature’s attempt to freeze them off.  We have survived the Grand Canyon hike and I am confident that all three of us will be able to walk normally again sometime in the future. 

The Grand Canyon is seriously amazing – words cannot describe how beautiful it is.   It wouldn't be fair to compare it to Cambodia because they are so different...but should you get any crazy ideas about cycling through Cambodia, could I suggest you first consider the Grand Canyon?

We started out the hike by making our descent which wouldn’t have been so difficult if there hadn’t been ice everywhere (and I suppose the giant packs on our back didn’t help either).   Thankfully our 25 year old guide was carrying the tents and food.  It’s slightly embarrassing to admit that she was the smallest one of all of us and carried a pack nearly three times heavier than ours…but that’s why she makes the big bucks.

Our packs were around 30 Lbs and the guides was 65 Lbs

You can see the difference in pack size here (the pack in front of Betsy is our guide's and is sticking up about 4 feet over her head)

Going down was an icy and slippery affair!

We made it down to Phantom Ranch by mid-afternoon giving us plenty of time to be beaten at cards repeatedly by my dad.  After 30 years of losing, my sister and I are used to this, and our chipper guide seemed OK with joining team loser.

Here is our camp and tents...

Our guide made the best food ever - everything she made tasted like a piece of heaven.

Betsy was very happy with her head lamp and tent.

We were in our sleeping bags by 6:45 PM and I was asleep by about 6:45:30.  This may seem early, but the options were either:

1. Try to sleep on hard, cold ground. 

or

2. Stay outside in the freezing cold and listen to a park ranger talk about the famous Kolb brothers  (Never heard of them?  Us either.  We promised to google them and went with the sleeping option instead).

When morning finally rolled around 11 hours later, we had all had a lot of time to think. 


My sister thought about how much she wanted to drink water, but wouldn’t allow herself because that might result in her having to go to the bathroom.  I wondered why I would dream about buffalos and champagne and if that might mean I really am crazy.

While we were thinking such interesting thoughts, my father had been plotting a new attack against the Grand Canyon.  His new brilliant plan was to finish the upcoming 2 day hike in 1 day. 

What was astonishing about his new plan is that none of us had predicted this outcome!

Betsy and I certainly weren’t surprised with the new plan of attack, and actually thought it was a little piece of genius.  But it was up to Dad to explain our new plan to the guide (as the guide, technically she was supposed to come up with the program, but there was a new boss in town). 

To help set up the introduction of the new plan, Betsy and I explained to the guide our history of Mommsen family traveling.  Some of the highlights:

• My parents visiting my sister in Germany and conducting a tour of 7 countries in one day while still having Betsy back in time for her 4 PM class.  The class ended up being cancelled and my Dad was pissed because they could have made it to Luxembourg too.
• My sister and I touring Rome in 4 hours.  This involved running in 95 degree heat and my sister yelling “Roman Ruins!” a lot and pointing.
• Mount Rushmore.  The only reason we were allowed to get out of the car at this visit was to have some breakfast, otherwise it would have been a drive by.

After providing the historical context, the guide seemed open to the new plan, but suggested this be “Plan B” and sticking with Plan A for the moment.  But all the Mommsen’s knew that Plan B was the new Plan A.

So as we hiked the following 5,000 feet back up we marveled at how gorgeous it was – and it was so gorgeous! – and took turns exchanging ideas for annoying songs to sing in our heads.  We had a lot of good ones including:  “Meet the Flinstones” “ Hi Ho, Hi Ho, it’s off to work we go” “We’re off to see the Wizard…” and the unfortunate song that has not left my mind since “Kukaberra sits in the old gum tree”

Water crossings were my least favorite.

The Colorado river was amazing. 

 And folks, we made it!  We finished the 5,000 feet and 9 ½ miles in 7 hours and were so happy (especially because it meant we didn't have to sleep in the freezing cold for another night).  It's worth noting that as we made our ascent, we passed many, many day hikers with little itsy bitsy packs on their backs making their way up.  This speedy forced march was all a crucial part of Plan B, and had my father been in the lead instead of the guide, the hike would have been finished in 6 hours flat (no stopping for food or water).  

Finished!  Yay!

I’m not going to dwell on our ride back to California which was supposed to take 7 hours but took…a  lot longer.  The point is that we got home in time for Thanksgiving.  This is the first time in about a decade that our entire family has been together for Thanskgiving…and the first time in 33 years (as far as I know) that we had the traditional TG dinner.  The dinner was great, it’s wonderful being together with the whole fam, and we are all stuffed, happy and still hobbling around.

I hope you all had wonderful Thanksgivings!  Thinking of you and sending lots of love from California!

These mules bring mail and garbage up and down the canyon every single day....

Purty Tired

I finally made it to LAX and was greeted by a customs official who looked at me and said:  “well if today isn’t my lucky day.  I’m getting all the purty girls in my line.”

And I thought Dutch men had a corner on saying the inappropriate.

I’ve spent my time so far staring at all the magazine covers trying to catch up on US celebrity news and being alarmed by how loud everything is.  It is really loud here.  It was also nice to visit a Starbucks where there is not one, not two, but THREE choices of no calorie sweeteners.  And the coffee lid made me smile...

Get it?  Solo traveller?

I'm really, really tired.

I can’t wait to see my dad and sister!  Hurry up flight to Phoenix!!

SingaStuffed

I’m not sure if I chose to do this to myself because I only have 24 hours in a world class city with so much to offer, or if it was Rong’s positive words of encouragement.  It might be because I’ve been eating really unhygienic food for the past couple of weeks that thankfully hasn't given me a parasite (I don’t think?).  Regardless, I decided to eat and drink myself silly in Singapore. 

It started with breakfast at the Intercontinental.  Let me first point out that I had a challenging hour long workout in the fitness center to get ready for my big hike on Tuesday.  But I followed it by massive consumption of dairy products and bread.

I share one thing in common with the majority of Asian people – lactose intolerance.  I never saw a single dairy product at breakfast, lunch or dinner the past two weeks.   In Vietnam it was condensed milk in coffee and no other milk offered.  Yogurt was never around, nor was cheese.  But the beauty of the Intercontinental (and there is much beauty) is that it caters to western tastes!

I have a special case of lactose intolerance, similar to those vegetarians who say they’re vegetarian but still eat fish, eggs and sometimes even chicken.  In my condition, I can eat large servings of cheese, butter and yogurt, and sometimes exceptions are made for ice cream as well.  But milk definitely makes me sick.   I feel very good about the levels of my lactose intolerance and have high hopes it will continue to improve. 

In my European cheese induced haze, I still managed to think responsibly and decided that I must start out my day learning about the history of Singapore since I know absolutely nothing about it except that it has a lovely hotel that I enjoy very much.  I went to the National Museum, and much to my surprise, discovered that the history of Singapore started in 1819.  I would’ve thought it was earlier, but perhaps the British have sponsored the National Museum.  In any case, I tried to keep up with my electronic guide that took me from 1819 until present day and it wasn’t easy!  I am well schooled in the John Mommsen art of traveling and that means that stops such as museums should only require 30 minutes  maximum (if a stop is necessary at all, sometimes just looking is enough) – and this always includes speed reading and sometimes running through exhibits.  I fully embrace this genius method of tourism and have given it careful practice (I will not let you down Dad!).  Unfortunately I took nearly 50 minutes to learn about the past 200 hundred years of Singapore history.  But I’m pretty much up to speed now and I’m glad I did it.

After the museum, I walked to the river since I do love the water.  It was very nice and I went for a long walk until finally acquiescing to the many requests from the people standing in front of restaurants to go in for a drink and sit by the river.   Here I am sunburnt and big shouldered (I think my shoulders already have an additional kilo of cheese on them.  I wonder, will that help with my hike?).

Then I decided it was best to head back to my hotel to apply deodorant which I had forgotten in a place where forgetting deodorant is like forgetting to wear clothes. 

I really like Singapore a lot.  It’s a very comfortable city to be in.  It’s not so much that Whities are walking around everywhere (I haven’t seen so many in ages – I wanted to wave with excitement and say – HI!  We are so WHITE!  And you talk funny.  I am not sure I like your accent.  Please stop talking so loudly.) but more that it’s a clean and pretty city featuring Western tendencies with a strong Asian twist.   I was here on a Sunday and it made the Christian churches stand out even more in such a seemingly non-Christian place.  Made me miss Buddha a bit, but was nice to hear the familiar hymns as I walked around. 

Frankly Singapore, I still like New York and Hong Kong better, but I kinda want to live with you.  Hello new Czar of Philips?  If you happen to be reading, just a suggestion!

Next stop was the famous Raffles hotel where the Singapore Sling was created. I walked in and immediately knew I had made a mistake, but oh well.  Now I’ve made it for all of us.  Please do me a favor and never have a Singapore sling at Raffles in Singapore?  Please?  It’s totally overpriced and only stupid tourists like me do it.  And although I’d never had a Singapore Sling before, I’m pretty sure they all taste the same.  They even had the recipe for the drink on the menu so I could make it for you sometime and I wouldn’t charge you $25. 

Following that error in judgment,I decided to grab my first lunch in China Town.  Singapore style noodles and Chinese broccoli was the delight and it was tasty!  Despite the heat, I managed to eat it all and then get some cheap gifts for my niece and nephew….and a massage for myself for about $10.  It was honestly one of the better massages I’ve ever had before and there was American Country music playing which made me smile, even while the masseuse caused me great pain.

After China town….well…I decided I wanted a second lunch, which in retrospect was a big (fat) mistake.  So I took a cab to Little India and found a restaurant with the following list of spicy options.  I went for #5 - "You are crazy” because I wanted to properly introduce myself to the waiter and I also really like spicy food.  
  

I ordered the same thing I always order at Indian restaurants and I have to say that I much, much, much prefer this favorite dish at my old Indian local in London.  Maybe it’s not as authentic, but I don’t care!   I am glad I had it because it reinforces why I love my Indian restaurant as much as I do – and I do love it.  Paradise restaurant in Hampstead if you ever have the opportunity. 

Anyway, it was clear at this point that I needed a walk and so I tried to make it to my hotel, but got lost until I found Sophia Road.  Named after my niece, I was sure it would get me even more lost, and it did. 

Then I went for a swim in the roof top pool and afterward the happy hour at the Intercontinental to consume even more cheese.  Rong was right – I do eat and drink like a man.  And he never had the opportunity to witness how I can consume free champagne…

I finished off my night by going to the Singapore Flyer which is the same as the London Observer except I hated it.  I’ve been on the London Observer at least a half dozen times – it is one of my favorite tourist traps in London, mostly because it is always accompanied with champagne when I go.  However, in Singapore there is no tour guide to accompany you and so I was left alone in a giant capsule with a giggling couple making out in the corner trying to figure out what buildings I was looking at.  And they had a weird remix of Coldplay Samba style, but I won’t judge.

Singapore does have a brilliant skyline and I will miss it. 


One thing I couldn't capture in Singapore was the Christmas decorations which were gorgeous - particularly on Orchard Road with all the lovely shops.  I never went shopping folks.  In fact, I hate shopping.   But I did do something stupid (OK, that’s not so surprising) and got too much Singapore cash to have in my pocket which will force me to return.

Anyway, I just got to the airport at 4 AM and I’m so weirdly awake and chipper.  I do not want to leave SE Asia and I will be back.  I’m going to miss it.

But for now, I’m concentrating on my training and will hike up and down the Singapore airport stairs with my 5 kilo backpack in preparation for what is to come.  I only wish I had bought a couple of shots of this to keep my energy levels up.  Sounds like the perfect challenge for my lactose intolerance.

Home Sweet Home

After all the longing...I've made it back to the Bangkok airport.  I'm sitting in Starbucks now and I'm a happy camper.  The past few days in the middle of nowhere without any internet access makes me appreciate this beautiful place even more.

I'm happy because I accomplished my mission - I am no longer afraid of cycling.  It was a super idea to tackle this fear in third world countries with a bunch of crazy people because the last thing I needed to worry about was figuring out how to ride a bike.  

I'm also happy because I'm on my way to Singapore.  At first I wasn't so excited about this stop - sounded pretty vanilla to me at the time.  But now, I embrace vanilla.  Give me cleanliness, give me square.  I even threw caution to the wind and discarded my antibacterial lotion (there was about one squirt left.  I have never in my life finished an entire bottle of antibacterial lotion.  I thought it might be impossible. But now I know the truth).

I don't know what I'm going to do in Singapore, but I do know that I am staying at the Intercontinental.  The hotel with the Pol Pot security bolts and water hose pushed me over the edge.  

Hosed

After 20 km’s of cycling two things became very clear.  The first being that I would not continue to ride at a snail’s pace with the rest of the group – not only because of the culturally complicated discussion I had with one of the guides about eating dogs - but mostly because my arse was bruised and the slower we went, the more I thought about it.  The second is that the only way said arse was making it for the full 90km’s was with all three of my padded bike shorts worn at the same time.  

So at the first break I put on all three pairs of the giant padded biking diapers and informed my guides that they would have a very unhappy American cyclist if they didn’t let me go my own pace.  I literally had a burr up my butt and they could tell, so they let me go ahead but they weren’t thrilled about the situation.

Once I could go my own speed, I was happy, except for the fact that we were cycling through a construction zone.  It is worth mentioning that we were taking the path of Pol Pot in 1979 when they retreated to the jungle, leaving a parting gift of Chinese land mines scattered throughout the country side.  There were signs all over warning of the mines, but I didn’t bother walking out to see if they were still there.  The photo doesn’t do the pot holes and loose gravel justice, but lets just say I didn’t come to Cambodia to cycle through a construction zone. 

Eventually we got to a much prettier part of Cambodia and headed up into the mountain jungle.  

It was a fun climb and the first time we got a decent workout which was a nice change.  The thing is, while I’ve been sitting around practising my patience for the past couple weeks, my sister and father have been training for our Grand Canyon hike that takes place in a mere few days.  My sister had been sending emails about training hikes in the North Woods snow with a hundred pound pack on her back past crazed right-wing militants.  The least I could do was manage a speedy cycle through a mine field.

Finally, we ended the ride at our latest Kakkerlak chalet.  The nice thing about this place was that it was protected – it had Pol Pot security in each room with impressive giant bolts at the top and bottom of the doors.  No need for signs discouraging the use of hand guns here!  The latest disappointment in accommodation was that there were no showers… just a hose.  Now, after a 90km bike ride in 95 degree sun through a dusty construction zone, the only thing besides a cold beer you want is a nice shower.  Instead, I got a hose (and a beer).

So I hosed off and decided the smartest thing to do was take a nap before dinner.  I woke up not even on the wrong side of the bed, but the wrong bed.  It was uncomfortable and I was not happy thinking about what in the hell dinner was going to be and then the 50 km bike ride the following day.  But I did my best to hide my dissatisfaction as you can see from the self portrait upon waking:

That night at dinner, our guide Rong announced that it was a farewell party and gave a very nice speech on how much he appreciated us visiting his country and how he enjoyed the trip.  Then he went around the table and said a few words about each person.  And what had started as a sweet speech turned into a proper roast.  It was relatively uncomfortable for a few of his comments on characters in the group and when he got to me he remarked with a big grin “Christine eat, drink and cycle like a man”  Aw shucks, you’ll make me blush Rong!  I guess he could have said worse.

Side note:  Everyone on this tour calls me Christine which actually pleases me because then I don’t have to pretend like we’re friends.   

Then Rong went on to Jane and said he was proud that she was able to cycle more than 10 km’s that day “but she only go fast down down hills because of her very big belly”   Rong was apparently still harboring some ill will towards Jane after having to literally push her big butt up the hills and then watch her freefall down faster than anyone else.    

The next morning we got up to cycle another 50 km’s through the Cambodian/Thai border.  At this point I was silently referring to myself as Numb Butt because I couldn’t feel a thing.  I was still wearing all three biking shorts and considered borrowing a couple more pair, but given the numbness, I was fine.  It didn’t help matters that I was sunburnt and had broken out in hives because of all the sun.  No amount of sunblock can protect you from that intense heat.

It wasn’t far to the border and I was surprised to see the welcoming garb the Cambodians wore:

I love them too because they let me go into Thailand.  It was like a homecoming of sorts because that is where I had started 3 weeks before and it felt good to be back.   Our new guide – I call him Skippy because that’s what his parents  should have named him if they were thinking – understood when I told him that I would not follow him, I would be cycling ahead or else there would be no smile on my face like the happy Thai people.  He ended up deciding to cycle with me for a bit and it was hysterical because he would cycle hands free with his arms pumping to the sides like he was dancing on his seat.  To top things off he was wearing a purse and thick gloves.  Oh Skippy.

We finished up the ride and I was so happy to retire my shorts – all three pair.  We went for lunch on the ocean…Jack Johnson was playing, we were eating yummy, super spicy Thai food (I decided I haven’t eaten enough Thai food in my life and I will spend the rest of it trying to make up for this oversight), and I was doing my best to ignore Jane who was sitting in front of me complaining about her bleeding ulcer and the spiciness of the food.   I also attempted to ignore everyone else.

Now we’re at the final Kakkerlak hotel which is in the middle of nowhere Thailand – but at least there is a beach and sun.  I tried walking to the ‘town’ which is one shop full of locals who made fun of my sunburn.   There’s literally nothing to do and I felt ship wrecked with a bunch of randoms.  There are worse things.

If I Had a Boat...

What the difference a day makes.  I have finally found my love for Cambodia and it was on the water.  You might think that a 7 ½ hour boat ride seems like a long time, but it was amazing.  If anyone wants to come to Cambodia, come to where ever it is I am and enjoy.  Next time I’m going to fly in a pontoon.  You have to go during the wet season otherwise you will get stuck…but in the wet season, you will go to the Floating Forest and it is wonderful.  The people were amazing – we laughed and cheered and joked and blew kisses at each other.  The kids were practicing with their racing boats and playing in the waves and the parents were gathering their nets of fish with a big wave and a smile for us.  This was the Cambodia I expected.  And it is definitely worth visiting.

Here are some photos – I took more than from Angkor Wat. Unfortunately I missed most of the good ones because I was too busy waving and yelling at the locals.  

Before the boat ride, we went to a silk farm which was also really interesting and I got some good gifts!

Our hotel for tonight is another story…It’s Hotel Kakkerlak 2.  The guides strongly suggested we not leave the hotel because it is too dangerous.  Not surprisingly, my room doesn’t have any windows in it – it’s actually a lot like the cells I saw at the Genocide Museum except my bed has a mattress instead of just a box spring (and I can’t find any torture devices, etc).  But the wonderful thing is that the hotel has an outdoor swimming pool so I got to go for a great swim!  I followed this by a shower with flip flops and a swimming suit because I was afraid that without shoes and clothes in the shower I would get eaten by something.


Thankfully, my room has this picture posted and a sign in the bathroom suggesting to "stop sex trafficking of children" which makes me feel much more safe and secure.

The entire group had to leave their rooms because we simply couldn’t be inside them (I am in the hotel lobby right now…I might sleep here).  Then we started drinking which was the smartest thing we could have done.  The end of the story is that the entire restaurant in the hotel (we made a lot of French friends…) were singing the current Cambodian hit “Tonight … We Celebrate Very Much Our Love For You”  The Peabo Bryson and Roberta Flack favorite, but with Cambodian English.  We just swayed and sang it together drinking terrible wine.  I fell off the wagon after 2 weeks and got some well deserved enjoyment out of it. 

Tomorrow we cycle 96 km’s!  Will be the toughest ride so far and I can’t wait until it is over.  One of the nurses gave me Second Skin and another gave me Tiger Balm.  I will be ready for this trip and my butt will make it through! 

I haven’t mentioned that at breakfast this morning I had to eat with Jane alone.  She was remarking, at length, on the wonders of room service.  I must be strong because I didn’t start drinking until about 14 hours later. 

I am so glad I finally like Cambodia!