I rode my first big wave yesterday morning. We went out for an early morning surf (apparently surfers call these a “dawnie” which is a good illustration of what is nice about surfing terminology. It can make some sense and is more creative then acronyms…like they don’t call it an EMS or anything.)
Ironically the big one was the first wave I caught that day and I really didn't understand what I had done until I saw the picture posted on Facebook. Ru was teaching me some drills and then he suggested I try taking a wave. He gave me a little push and down I went. I was pretty surprised I actually stood up on the board and when I felt the new sensation of dropping down a wave it put a big smile on my face.
Then the white water came and ripped me off and I got a lot of water in my nose. But that’s not the point of the story.
If I’m going to have a little moment of surfing reflection (bear with me here folks) it reminded me that sometimes it takes someone you trust to give you a little push into something scary when you don't want to do it alone. You might realize you've got it in you to do things you didn’t think you could do (and sometimes you fall just like you did 100 times before when you had people you trust pushing you into things you wanted to stay away from).
But really all this blah blah is just an excuse to show off the picture of me surfing. You'll be pleased to know that in the afternoon I focused my efforts on falling because it’s probably good to be well rounded.